Monday, December 17, 2007

Army jackets

Ever since it got cold this fall, I’ve been seeing men in army jackets all over New York. They are cotton field jackets with a “woodland camouflage” print. Some of them appear to be army surplus (probably the M65 Field Jacket) and some are reproductions with a twist such as screenprinting done over the camouflage pattern. I’ve seen them on thirtyish men of all ethnicities, most of whom have an understated, sort-of anti-fashion—but still stylish—style.

This is the second military jacket to be popular this year. The first was the M65 “fishtail” parka, which Prada brought back in fall 2006 and H&M and others knocked off early this fall. I attributed the reappearance of the fishtail parka to its association with the British Mods of the ‘60s, whose look had a mini-comeback along with the other recent ‘60s trends, and to the “urban warrior” look that was popular last winter. Associated as it is with the Korean War and the Mods, the fishtail parka does not seem like a direct reference to our current war in Iraq.

Neither do these field jackets. First of all, the men wearing them do not project a politically-charged fashion statement of any kind. Secondly, the print I’ve been seeing is woodland camouflage, not the desert camouflage all our troops are wearing. Do these jackets make a statement at all? Maybe they were bought for practical reasons, such as price (they cost about $70), the desire to avoid shopping (they can be found in any army-surplus store), a disinterest in fashion (they’re a uniform), or plain utility (although the outer shell is cotton, a warm, down-filled liner can be purchased to go inside). Or maybe men bought them to be environmentally friendly (buying a surplus item is a form of reuse/recycling).

I’m curious, though, about the “woodland” camouflage print. I hadn’t seen it around until recently, and I think its popularity must have some significance. Could it have to do with a renewed interest in nature and concern for the environment? Or perhaps an enthusiasm for hunting? Or maybe the jackets are a political statement after all, and the wearing of woodland camouflage, instead of desert camouflage, is a symbol of Americans’ desire to turn our military’s image away from the negative one it’s taken on in Iraq and back towards its traditional, more positive one.

I wonder whether anyone else has been seeing this trend, or whether they start noticing it after reading this. Please let me know (in the comments) if you spot it around or have other ideas or reactions.

Update 1/6/08: I am now seeing brand-new-looking desert camo on "cool dads" at Whole Foods and such places.

Update 1/11/08: Now seeing tons of camo-print hoodies and hats

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